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salimen The Biggest Myths About Skin Dec 3, 2009 9:53 AM #1 Cleansers with anti-aging ingredients don't work because you rinse them off right away. Some anti-aging cleansers—particularly those containing glycolic acid—can actually improve skin tone and texture with just a little bit of contact. Don't rush through your time at the sink, though. "To guarantee absorption, massage your cleanser into your skin for about a minute before rinsing it off," Day says. You could also alternate your regular cleanser with premoistened cleansing wipes. "Many of them contain anti-aging ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids, and they're a great alternative since you don't rinse them off at all," says Jeannette Graf, former assistant clinical professor of dermatology at New York University Medical Center. #2 Home microdermabrasion is no different than a grainy scrub. Besides the fact that they're both exfoliants, microdermabrasion and scrubs have little in common. "Grainy scrubs are often made up of coarse, rough particles, which can be too harsh for sensitive skin," Day says. "Microdermabrasion kits are just as—if not more—effective, but they have fine, even particles and are much less aggravating." Plus, the kits often contain soothing, hydrating ingredients. #3 If using glycolic peels or microdermabrasion kits twice a week is good, then every day is better. Yes, you can have too much of a good thing. "Using these products too often might make your skin feel smoother temporarily, but it can be very irritating in the long run," Waldorf says. And the more you do it, the harder it will be to restore your skin's health. "These products work only if your skin has time to recover in between. If not, it will lose its protective barrier and become weak and dull," Day says. Even if a kit suggests daily use, "I still tell patients to use them no more than twice weekly—your skin simply doesn't need it," Waldorf says. #4 Over-the-counter creams can't build collagen in the skin. Actually, over-the-counter retinol (along with prescription retinoids) is able to increase the collagen in your skin by promoting the regrowth of new cells at the skin's deepest level. And now there's news that some other over-the-counter products have been proven to stimulate collagen, too. "We used to think that peptide particles were too big to penetrate, but now some companies attach them to other molecules, such as lipids and liposomes, that are able to get through," Waldorf says. The same is true for antioxidants. "Scientists have discovered ways to attach them to liposomes, which can easily penetrate the skin," Graf says. The only downside: "It takes much longer to build collagen with an over-the-counter cream than it does with a prescription," Waldorf says  Nothing short of a scalpel can firm sagging skin. Creams that stimulate collagen "can help a bit," says Waldorf, but "once the skin really starts to lose elasticity, it needs fillers such as Restylane, Juvaderm, or Radiesse, or radio-frequency treatments such as Thermage, to reverse sagging." #5 You need separate products for acne and anti-aging. It's actually quite possible to hit these two birds with one stone—especially if that stone is a retinoid. "Prescription retinoids such as tretinoin and tazarotene are potent acne medications as well as the gold standard for topical anti-aging," Waldorf says. "They sweep away the dead cells that cause whiteheads, blackheads, and clogged pores, and they increase cell turnover and collagen production." And while retinoids were once thought to fight only the signs of sun damage, "we now know that they can fight genetic aging too," Waldorf says. "This is great news for women who do protect themselves from the sun but still have some lines." As for over-the-counter options, "products containing lower-strength retinol can still be effective against aging and acne-ridden skin," she says. #6 Expensive means better. True—in the case of handbags, sheets, and flat-screen televisions. But inexpensive anti-aging products can work well, and they could even be better. "Expensive products may have great packaging and marketing, but they do not necessarily have more science backing them up," Waldorf says. Case in point: "A clinical study in the February 2006 issue of Dermatologic Surgery showed that Aveeno's Soy Moisturizer is a more effective anti-aging treatment than StriVectin"—a stretch-mark cream turned wrinkle reducer—says Jeanine Downie, a Montclair, New Jersey, dermatologist. One guideline is to "stick to labels that you know," Waldorf says. "An obscure product might say it contains certain ingredients, but you can't be sure of what you're getting or how effective it will be." #7 The more anti-agers you layer on, the better. Smearing on product after product might make you think you're doing the utmost for your skin, but it isn't worth the effort—or the money. "The more treatments you use, the more likely you are to develop an allergy or irritation and have no idea which product caused it," Waldorf says. "Plus, the products won't work as well. A balanced approach is best—focus on a couple products with the ingredients your skin needs most." For the majority of people, that's "a lightweight antioxidant serum followed by an SPF-infused moisturizer in the morning and a retinoid followed by a moisturizer (or a moisturizer with retinol) at night," Waldorf says. #8 Anti-aging creams work better at night. Like vampires, some anti-aging creams work best when the sun goes down—but not all. "Any anti-aging cream that contains retinoids, peptides, AHAs, or BHAs should be used at night," says Graf. "While you sleep, blood flow to the skin increases, the PH level decreases, and the protective barrier is weakened. These ingredients work best under these conditions." Other anti-agers are crucial during the day. "Antioxidants and SPF are key for daytime," Graf says. #9 If a cream isn't showing results in a few weeks, move on. #10 Tingling, redness, and flaking are normal side effects of anti-agers. Put down the ice pack and step away from the concealer. It's mainly certain alpha and beta hydroxy acids and old-school prescription retinoids that "cause some redness, scaling, and itchiness when you first start using them," Waldorf says. And to a lesser degree, vitamin C products and anything in a gel base can be irritating, too. We used to think that irritation meant it was working, but "now we know that it can be just a bad side effect," Graf says. "In fact, anti-agers work much better on healthy skin that isn't irritated." Gentler formulas, such as prescription Retin-A Micro, cause minimal irritation. And some anti-agers, such as peptides, aren't irritating at all. If you do experience mild redness or peeling, usually all it takes to calm the skin is reducing the frequency of application, a little restraint, and daily SPF. If you have an excessive reaction, see a doctor. "When I prescribe a retinoid, I recommend that patients use it twice a week for two weeks. Then, most women can use it every other day or even daily," Waldorf says. Retinoid-treated skin is more prone to sunburns, so "a daily dose of SPF 30 or above is vital, too," says Day. And while it may be tempting to slather on retinoids, "just a pea-size dot for your entire face is enough," Day says. "Retinoids are not soothing night creams—a little goes a long way." #11 If you use retinoids on your face, you can't get an upper-lip or eyebrow wax. Nothing—not even retinoids—should stand between a woman and her mustache. To prevent burning or peeling, "anyone using retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, or beta hydroxy acids should lay off them for two days before the wax and two days after—and let the waxer know what you're doing," Waldorf says. "Right after the wax, apply a 1 percent hydrocortisone cream to the area to reduce irritation." Gentler anti-agers such as peptides and antioxidants do not affect waxing at all. #12 A sunscreen with SPF 15 can prevent wrinkles. SPF 15 isn't enough to keep you crease-free—no matter how diligently you apply it. "SPF 15 gives you just 93.5 percent protection from UVB rays; SPF 30 gives you 97 percent protection; SPF 45 gives you 98 percent protection; and so on," Downie says. To protect yourself from the UVA rays that cause collagen and elastin damage and melanoma, be sure that it includes "either stabilized avobenzone [such as Helioplex], Mexoryl, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide," says Waldorf. Two good sunscreens: Neutrogena Dry Touch SPF 55 with Helioplex and Burt's Bees Chemical-Free Sunscreen SPF 30, which contains titanium dioxide.
salimen Hottest Cut Dec 3, 2009 9:43 AM Agyness Deyn  BOB If you're thinking about a bob like Deyn's, consider your face shape. If it's long and narrow face (like hers), ask for a cut that's aligned with the top of the lips, advises hairstylist Chris McMillan of Chris McMillan The Salon in Beverly Hills. "This length gives her face a bit of fullness," he says. If you have a rounder face, go for a chin-length style with bangs swept all the way to one side. This cut works on both fine and thick textures, but not on curly hair. "If you've got thick, curly hair, stay away," says McMillan. "It'll turn into a wavy ball." LONG AND LAYERED Nicole Richie "This is a sexy, easy, Bohemian look," says hairstylist Chris McMillan of Chris McMillan The Salon in Beverly Hills, of Nicole Richie's cut. Request layers that start at the collarbone. Bangs keep the style from looking too stringy, but they shouldn't be too thick or too thin. LONG AND LAYERED Rashida Jones A style with long layers and side-swept bangs is ideal if you have naturally wavy hair—or if you're growing out blunt bangs. Ask for layers, from the jaw down, says hairstylist Chris McMillan of Chris McMillan The Salon in Beverly Hills, who cuts Jones's hair. The bangs look best chopped to eyebrow-length, with slightly longer pieces on the sides. BOB Selma Blair Growing out a chin-length cut? Blair's long, shaggy bob is "a great transitional style for short hair," says hairstylist Chris McMillan of Chris McMillan The Salon in Beverly Hills. Ask for a haircut that hits the collarbone, with bangs that are slightly past your eyebrows. This look works best with a bit of body, so McMillan recommends applying a volumizing mousse, when hair is damp, then tousling hair and letting it air dry. SHOULDER LENGTH Gwyneth Paltrow Not all haircuts are meant to look brand-new; Paltrow's style resembles a bob that's been growing out for a few months. To get that effect, "ask for a blunt cut that falls just above the shoulders and has absolutely no layers," says hairstylist Sally Hershberger of the Sally Hershberger Downtown salon in New York City. Then, ask her to "thin out the ends with scissors or a razor so they look slightly jagged." A cut like this can be worn wavy or flatironed pin-straight. SHOULDER LENGTH Kate Moss If you're growing out blunt bangs, this is a great transitional cut, especially if you have fine to medium hair with a slight wave. "Ask for a shoulder-length style, cut with scissors and a razor, layered from the cheekbones down," says hairstylist Garren of the Garren New York salon. "It's also slightly layered at the crown, and the bottom is all one length, which gives it a disheveled look." Spritz on texturizing spray and part your hair on the side. Let it dry naturally, then mess it up with your hands or a large-tooth comb for a beachy, sexy look. SHOULDER LENGTH Liv Tyler "Liv's cut is about as blunt as a haircut can get—there are virtually no layers," says hairstylist Garren of the Garren New York salon. "Ask your stylist to make it collarbone-length in the front and just a touch shorter in the back. You should be able to part it on the side or in the center, and if it starts to feel too severe, make some gentle waves with a curling iron. SHOULDER LENGTH Cate Blanchett Anyone aiming to make fine hair look fuller should check out this cut—which requires a few cheek-length layers around the face, and very little else. "Ask for very blunt ends all the way around and a few face-framing pieces in front that start just below the eyebrows," says hairstylist Chris McMillan of Chris McMillan, The Salon in Beverly Hills. SHOULDER LENGTH Hilary Swank This cut proves that opposites attract. "The soft, textured feel perfectly balances strong features like Hilary's," says hairstylist Garren of the Garren New York salon. "Ask for a choppy, textured cut that's about ten inches long with layers that start at ear length and go all the way around the head—that means no bangs, and no face-framing pieces." One warning: "This cut will make fine hair look scraggly, so if that's what you have, stick with something more blunt," he says. SHOULDER LENGTH Catherine Zeta-Jones If you have wavy or curly hair, this is the best cut to keep from looking like Little Orphan Annie. Simply tell your stylist that you'd like "a bell-shaped, shoulder-length cut with long layers," says Babaii. "The layers should start mid-neck, and there shouldn't be any short pieces anywhere. It's meant to look sleeker on top and bouncy on the ends." GAMINE Rihanna She took a risk with this deconstructed pixie—but Rihanna's gotten nothing but rave reviews from day one. "This is the perfect cut for someone who's a little edgy and isn't afraid to stand out," says hairstylist Jimmy Paul of the Bumble and Bumble salon in New York City. "The back and sides should be boy-short and layered to the head, the top should be heavily layered and full, and the front bang section should be eye-length and very choppy. It isn't meant to look perfect." Victoria Beckham If you want to play up your eyes and cheekbones—and you're brave—try Beckham's short pixie. It flatters heart- or oval-shaped faces, but not round ones, says hairstylist Garren of the Garren New York salon, who gave her this cut. "It can be worn on or off the face," he says. "Ask your stylist to make it very feminine, and shaggy at the neckline with short, piecey bangs. The shortest bangs should be one inch long over your forehead. Work a light silicone pomade through your hair, using your hands, for definition." BANGS Camilla Belle On hair that's thick and straight, this cut has a cool '60s vibe. (It makes all other textures fall flat and look stringy.) "Tell your stylist you'd like your bangs to start very far back on your head and end just below the eyebrows," says Garren. "They should also be very blunt, very thick, and perfectly straight, with no layers—and the rest of your hair should be, too."
salimen Dandruff Scalp Cure Dec 3, 2009 9:32 AM DANDRUFF   Despite common misconceptions, dandruff is not just dry flakes; it's a scalp-specific form of eczema, says Bank. "There's an overgrowth of a harmless yeast, and one way the skin tries to get rid of this excess is to shed affected cells," he explains. Here's how to fight the flakes. 1. SHOP RIGHT. Alternate between a shampoo that kills the yeast (look for ketaconazole or pyrithione zinc, which is found in Head & Shoulders) and a formula that exfoliates with salicylic acid (such as Neutrogena Maximum Strength T/Sal). If your hair is colored or damaged, choose a gentle dandruff shampoo; try DHS Zinc or PureOlogy AntiFade Complex DandruffScalpCure. Dab the medicated shampoo only where you need it on the scalp, and rinse it out. Then apply a moisturizing shampoo to the shaft, says Garren. 2. WASH WELL. Thoroughly massage in the shampoo and leave it on the scalp for at least a minute to allow the active ingredient to work. Then rinse with warm—not hot—water. Follow this routine daily until the flakes abate (depending on their severity, you could see improvement after a few days). Then just repeat a few times a week for maintenance. If you haven't noticed improvement after a month, see a dermatologist. You may need a prescription-strength treatment, such as a steroid lotion. 3. LIGHTEN UP. Dark hair colors make dandruff obvious, so consider dyeing your hair as light as your skin tone will allow, or simply get highlights. 4. CUT THE CHLORINE. Shampoo as soon as possible after you get out of the pool. Any residual chlorine can exacerbate dandruff, says Bank. 5. HIDE IN STYLE. Certain styling tricks can help make flakes less noticeable. First, avoid a ruler-straight part and flatironed or blunt-cut hair. A simple, part-free twist is a better option: "The twist will help keep you from touching and scratching your head and creating new flakes," says Hawkins. If you'd rather leave hair down, blow-dry it with a few Velcro rollers at the crown to obscure the scalp.
salimen Oily Hair Dec 3, 2009 9:29 AM OILINESS   For all the benefits of hair that's slightly dirty—it's lower-maintenance and easier to style—there's a fine line between a healthy shine and an oil slick. 1. DO IT DAILY. Oily hair should be shampooed every day, but resist the urge to use the strongest lather you can find; deter-gents can dry the scalp so much that oil production increases to compensate, says New York City dermatologist David E. Bank. Instead, wash with a gentle shampoo one day, and one that exfoliates the scalp the next (look for salicylic acid on the label; try Philip Pelusi HaiRX Exfoliating Shampoo Treatment). As with the pores on your face, unplugging the follicles on your scalp can help normalize oil production. 2. CONSIDER YOUR CUT. Oily hair that is longer than shoulder-length can "start to separate and look like bad extensions," says Blandi. A slightly layered cut will help. And think twice about getting bangs, particularly if you have oily skin—they can lead to breakouts on your forehead. 3. DON'T BE STRAIGHT. Flatirons make oily hair look oilier. Instead, Blandi recommends slightly teasing at your roots and just under the top layers of the hair with a paddle brush. Or pull hair into a loose, low twist—anything too tight will only highlight the grease. 4. BE CHOOSY. Thickening spray can be your best friend, since its key ingredients counteract greasiness, says Paul, who recommends misting it over damp hair, section by section. Avoid shine enhancers and pomades—they can turn greasy in your hair, Hawkins says. (To make hair shine, simply dampen the bristles of a paddle brush and run it from your scalp to the ends.) For curls, rake through a dime-size blob of gel— "most contain alcohol, which absorbs some of the oil but still gives you some style," Blandi says. 5. BLOT AND GO. To combat oiliness quickly, spray dry shampoo on a brush and work it in from roots to ends. In a pinch, you can also use facial blotting papers or translucent face powder at the roots ("it's better than baby powder, which tends to clump," says Hawkins). To apply, part hair at the crown and, using a large bronzer brush, dust on some powder, then massage it into the roots. (Continue parting and applying until you've absorbed most of the oil.)
salimen Top 5 Hair Tips. Dec 3, 2009 9:27 AM GRAY ROOTS   Most women see their first grays by age 34, according to Clairol research. Try employing these simple tricks to get to the root of the problem. 1. SHAMPOO, CONDITION, DEEP-CONDITION. Avoid color-spiked shampoos, which, over time, can make your hair color look fake, according to Hazan. But do use conditioner at your roots, since grays tend to be coarse and wiry. To keep conditioner from leaving your hair limp, look for formulas with lightweight hydrators such as vitamin E, or flower oils (try Philip Kingsley No Scent No Colour Conditioner or Herbal Essences Body Envy Volumizing Conditioner). Once a week, massage a deep-conditioner into your roots, wrap hair in a towel that's been soaked in hot water and then thoroughly wrung out, and cover your head with a shower cap, suggests hair-stylist Oscar Blandi of the Oscar Blandi salon in New York City. Let it marinate for up to five minutes, then rinse. 2. BE THREE-DIMENSIONAL. Color that is multitonal—with a neutral base and two different warm highlight shades— "creates a background where gray roots can blend in," Hazan says. The one exception: redheads, who should instead apply a single-process shade as close to their natural color as possible. 3. TAKE ROOT. Between color appointments, disguise the gray with an at-home root-touch-up kit that's a shade lighter than you think you need, says Hazan. The idea isn't to cover regrowth completely—just to diffuse it until you can get to the salon. 4. CREATE AN ILLUSION. When you've gone too long between dye jobs, the simplest way to hide grays is with volume at the roots. "A little height can camouflage up to an inch of growth," says colorist Reyad Fritas of New York City's Frédéric Fekkai salon. When hair is damp, spritz texturizing spray at the roots, flip your head upside down, and blast roots with a blow-dryer. Or, when hair is freshly blow-dried, place Velcro rollers at the crown and let hair cool. 5. DON'T BE PLUCKY. Avoid tweezing grays (no, not because of that whole "two will grow back" business). "When you pluck gray hairs, the regrowth sprouts straight out from your head."  Plus, many women don't realize how much they're pulling out.

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